16 October 2009. Beautiful sun...
October light, Pacific swell. A summer's morning, I don't know when. Gray at dawn, tucked up in hooded sweatshirt, Schwinn, board under one arm, ocean bound... Down Alberta Street hill, over to Wisconsin, across Hill Street, the tracks... First glimpse of morning's waves--about three feet, breaking glassy, gray-green...
Ojalá...
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