27 July 2010. Attention on the big wave. Grandview, maybe--but not without a touch of Windansea (view down light-colored La Jolla street to first hump of wave out beyond pungent tide-pool rocks). Or even the pier (Oceanside, that is) where the middle swell allowed for left or right slide. Left being the most risky--in that a forest of pilings was never far off--mussel clumps on creosote logs, each fitted in at specific angle. It broke up once, in the middle of the night--a winter storm--huge combers rolling in from the north--roiling...
Always that way, at certain times of year--the wind-blown ocean, whitecaps, crazy waves this-way-and-that--the power of no order. Well, no order that we can fathom...
Tolstoy, all thoughout--first the event, and then it's meaning...made clear, but only at an infinite distance...
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